“It’s a whole different world here isn’t it?” That was the comment made to me by a total stranger in excellent English as I sat down on the other end of the bench in the town plaza of San Diego de Alejandria.
It was Sunday morning, following the last big night of the annual festival in honor of the Virgin Mary. We had just left that same plaza about 2am, heading home but the party had still been going strong. The party had still been going strong but the vendors were all starting to pack up and a couple of fights had broken out and a few people were crying. It was time.
This was my third year to experience the 10 day festival. Each day more and more people arrive in town to either attend or to work the event. Every night sees a new carnival ride, new games to play and new food vendors. Then towards the end of the week the market on the back street of town starts to set up where you can buy household and kitchen goods, clothing, boots and shoes, toys, jewelry, natural medicines, CD’s and DVD’s.
People come from the countryside and neighboring towns. You see many of them arriving on packed buses with standing room only. It is also a time of year when people who have left return to visit with family and friends. So much activity happens during those 10 days that when it is all over both you and the town feel like a balloon that has suddenly deflated.
This year the festival began on New Years Eve but it seems to me that New Years Eve is a rather quiet time here in town, even with the start of the festival. I really enjoy my Mexican New Years Eve; it is always a fairly low key event. We head to mass at 10 o’clock and then back to the house to light a fire, eat and have a few drinks. This year we arrived at church for 10 o’clock mass to find the adoration being performed with mass eventually starting at 11 and being over around 12:15. Hopefully this makes up for my missing mass on Christmas.
The festival is of course sponsored by the church but wholly supported by the municipality with police and venues. Everyday there are 2 processions through town led by a Mariachi Band and followed by guys tossing giant homemade bottle rockets made with bamboo, rolled up newspaper and gun powder. The processions represent the various religion classes and the different groups that support the church. As I noted many people return to town for the festival and on the final Saturday there is the procession and mass for all those that have moved away and are back to visit. This is a very special, festive mass with the mariachi band leading the people into the church and marching up the aisle to play at the alter while everyone files in. It is also a huge event with standing room only during the 2 hour mass. Last year we ended up sitting on the steps of the alter and even though the mass can last over 2 hours you don’t notice the time because of all the emotion and sense of community going on.
This year I had the honor of portraying St. John the Baptist in the big procession on Saturday night. This procession includes floats portraying different aspects of Catholic life or stories from the Bible with the final float carrying the statue of the Virgin to the main doors of the church. At that point the priest gives a blessing for the town and the Virgin is returned to her place of honor in the church.
It really was an honor to participate and reinforced in me how much faith is a part of everyday life here, especially when the people would applaud as our float passed by. They tell me that people were also exclaiming as we passed “look it’s the gringo”. I guess if they didn’t know me before they know who I am now.
There was drag racing one afternoon out on the highway where it turns into four lanes. 2 lanes for racing, 2 lanes for regular highway traffic with parking and viewing on the shoulders. We did discuss entering the Bronco but never got around to it; maybe next year.
What really is my favorite part of the festival is the nightly fireworks display. Every night, starting between 10 and 11 on the plaza in front of the church, a fireworks tower is set up. The tower is metal and wood but holds different shapes and symbols made from bamboo. As the show progresses different parts of the tower will light up and spin until finally it reaches the top where the Virgin Crown is located. This truly is an ending to the show with the crown spinning faster and faster until it eventually lifts up into the sky towards heaven with the church bells tolling in celebration. Now in years past the crown always leaves the plaza and will drop back to the ground in another part of town. This year there were some technical difficulties and most nights the crown crashed back in the plaza. One night it glanced off the roof of the gazebo in the center and hit a girl in the back of her head not 5 feet from where we stood. The last night which always has the biggest show (lasting almost an hour) the crown was only able to lift up enough to clear the top of the tower and then fall straight down.
Public safety really is your own personal responsibility here in Mexico. You can stand so close to the fireworks display that sparks hit you. At the drag races spectators were standing between the “race course” and the “highway”, basically on the center line of a four lane highway. The vendors all set up with their power cords lying across walkways and “tapped” into the overhead power lines. Rides don’t necessarily have barricades around them I realized when I almost was hit by the engine of the kiddy train as it rounded a corner. The police are visible at all times but seem focused on crowd control, stopping fights mainly. One night we saw 7 State Police vehicles discharge their 8 man crews who proceeded to line up along one corner of the plaza. Being a rather quiet night early in the week they pretty much spent the evening talking or texting on their cell phones. Alcohol is everywhere and on that last big night we commented that not one person in all those thousands attending did not have an alcoholic beverage in their hand.
I mention all this only to express how things work differently here, because the atmosphere is safe and extremely fun. It’s an event where the kids are able to go off on their own and nothing is going to happen to them. If I were to have been burned by sparks from the fireworks it’s my own fault for standing so close, but that’s why I wear a hat.
So many things happen and there are so many characters………………..
The guy with a drink in each hand, pant legs tucked into his cowboy boots, wearing a towel under his ball cap, gold lame shirt under his jacket and singing to my friends sister every time he saw her. He tells us he knows 350 songs, to be exact.
Sitting on the sidewalk outside the house playing Jenga.
The priest with early onset Alzheimer’s who one night wouldn’t allow the church lights to be turned on or the bells to be rung.
You can hear at least 3 strolling mariachi bands playing at any given time.
The inebriated gentleman we watched cross the street in front of the house one morning around 11am – 2 steps forward, 3 steps sideways, 1 step back, and repeat. He eventually made it across the street, fell down on the sidewalk and started to argue with the people in his head.
The 2 rabbits, 2 turtles and 1 duck we ended up at the house with.
Like the guy sitting next to me said “It’s a whole different world here isn’t it?”
And I replied “Muy differente, muy differente”
Tuesday, January 11, 2011
Tuesday, December 28, 2010
I Missed Mass at Christmas But……
Somehow with all the activities going on Christmas Eve we never made it to mass that evening. When this happens I always have to hope that God knows what is in my heart, and that with the number of churches I have visited since being in Mexico maybe I have some credit built up.
To be serious for a moment though I have always felt my faith strengthened by being here. Maybe because it is such a part of everyday life from the tolling of the church bells to the image of Christ emblazoned on the #604 bus I ride each day. Then it could be fact that almost everyday there is the opportunity to stop in at church, maybe only for 5 minutes, but time enough to stop, reflect, think about who and what is important to me and to relax. Even if its only 5 minutes I feel that a weight has been lifted. Most days I stop in at the church across the plaza from my school. It is a great big, gothic piece of work and hosted many televised, musical events during the Christmas season.
On a Sunday afternoon shortly before moving to Mexico I had stopped at St Cecelia’s’ Cathedral in Omaha and happened upon a concert being performed on their pipe organ. What a moving experience. For almost 2 hours I was mesmerized and moved never realizing how quickly time was passing. A good friend of mine with a wonderful singing voice stated that there is nothing better than to hear a concert in a church. She couldn’t be any more correct. Since moving to Guadalajara I have enjoyed numerous concerts performed in the churches here. A concert of ancient sacred music performed on traditional instruments and sung in ancient dialects. One day we came across a wedding ceremony where the singers were of professional operatic caliber.
In Guadalajara there seems to be a church every 100 feet. This may be a bit of an exaggeration but one evening while killing time before another event we went walking through Guadalajara Centro and visited 5 churches in a very short time. We would have visited another one but the poor little Presbyterian Church was closed to the public. The Presbyterian Church is tiny when compared to the great Catholic edifices that dot the city and it could seriously fit in any of then with plenty of room to spare.
Most of the churches will have placards outside briefly telling their story, and each one has a fascinating history all its own. My thinking was that each church represented a parish, but being so close together I couldn’t see how this would be possible. In their original time the chapels may have been closed to the public, only serving the members of the orders they represented.
In Guadalajara the two Franciscan Churches that are now separated by a major street were for the public, one for the upper class to attend, the second being for the lower classes. On a visit there we saw a Franciscan Brother in his traditional brown robe tied with the white cord.
The former Carmelite Convent here had a particularly violent past and like the Franciscan property is now divided by a major street. Only a small chapel remains from the original church and the rest of the facility is a cultural center across the street.
The Mexican Constitution of 1917 enacted many laws to control the powers of the church, church property was seized by the government and missions, convents and schools were closed. In the late 1920’s the Catholics rose up against then president Calles, a strident atheist in what is known as the Cristero War. Many churches were burned or destroyed. Last summer on a road trip to visit the historical towns of the Mexican Revolution, we stopped in Querétaro at the Carmelite convent. The chapel located there had been rebuilt after the Cristeros but included windows looking in on the original walls when the covent was burned in the 20’s(see photo on your right). In Guadalajara a series of government buildings on the main plaza which were part of another convent seized by the government still include the convents’ chapel.
Back to our road trip and the churches we visited. In the City of Querétaro we saw the Mission where Father Junípero Serra was originally stationed before he went on to found twenty some missions stretching from the interior of Mexico up through California. A few years back I was able to visit the Mission at Carmel California where he was buried. It was humbling to see where he had started and all he had accomplished between Querétaro and Carmel. Querétaro is full of historical sites but the must see one is the original aqueduct that brought water from the mountains to the mission. Also in Querétaro there is a convent that is cloistered, closed to the public. We did or best to peak in the giant keyhole of the door to the chapel but were unable to see anything. And to walk the perimeter of the immense property would have taken us more time then we had. It was truly an erie place to encounter.
Before we had reached Querétaro that day we had stopped in Celaya and visited the Franciscan Mission where the chapel contained the bones of a priest who had been burned at the stake after being accused of witchcraft.
Further along our journey that day was the church at Dolores Hidalgo where the bells were rang the night of September 16th, 1810, and the priest Miguel Hidalgo called the people to start the Mexican War for Independence.
Like I said the churches all seem to have a story to share, they are more than a places to worship but places that have been key to the history of the country. While most of the churches I have talked about can be described as grand my favorite one to attend mass at is located in the country, in the canyon area. It is a small, simple chapel out in the countryside, it never was completely built and you can climb the steep, narrow, circular steps up to the roof where the bell towers should have been. Mass there seems to be simple and uncomplicated with a true spirit in the air. Vendors set up outside the church selling, meat, vegetables, ice cream and beer. Folks mill about before and after, enjoying small talk and time just seems to be suspended and you live in the moment.
There have been many, many other churches that I have visited while being in Mexico, some have been forgotten while others deserve a story of their own, but each one has brought me a moment of reflection and a feeling of peace.
To be serious for a moment though I have always felt my faith strengthened by being here. Maybe because it is such a part of everyday life from the tolling of the church bells to the image of Christ emblazoned on the #604 bus I ride each day. Then it could be fact that almost everyday there is the opportunity to stop in at church, maybe only for 5 minutes, but time enough to stop, reflect, think about who and what is important to me and to relax. Even if its only 5 minutes I feel that a weight has been lifted. Most days I stop in at the church across the plaza from my school. It is a great big, gothic piece of work and hosted many televised, musical events during the Christmas season.
On a Sunday afternoon shortly before moving to Mexico I had stopped at St Cecelia’s’ Cathedral in Omaha and happened upon a concert being performed on their pipe organ. What a moving experience. For almost 2 hours I was mesmerized and moved never realizing how quickly time was passing. A good friend of mine with a wonderful singing voice stated that there is nothing better than to hear a concert in a church. She couldn’t be any more correct. Since moving to Guadalajara I have enjoyed numerous concerts performed in the churches here. A concert of ancient sacred music performed on traditional instruments and sung in ancient dialects. One day we came across a wedding ceremony where the singers were of professional operatic caliber.
In Guadalajara there seems to be a church every 100 feet. This may be a bit of an exaggeration but one evening while killing time before another event we went walking through Guadalajara Centro and visited 5 churches in a very short time. We would have visited another one but the poor little Presbyterian Church was closed to the public. The Presbyterian Church is tiny when compared to the great Catholic edifices that dot the city and it could seriously fit in any of then with plenty of room to spare.
Most of the churches will have placards outside briefly telling their story, and each one has a fascinating history all its own. My thinking was that each church represented a parish, but being so close together I couldn’t see how this would be possible. In their original time the chapels may have been closed to the public, only serving the members of the orders they represented.
In Guadalajara the two Franciscan Churches that are now separated by a major street were for the public, one for the upper class to attend, the second being for the lower classes. On a visit there we saw a Franciscan Brother in his traditional brown robe tied with the white cord.
The former Carmelite Convent here had a particularly violent past and like the Franciscan property is now divided by a major street. Only a small chapel remains from the original church and the rest of the facility is a cultural center across the street.
The Mexican Constitution of 1917 enacted many laws to control the powers of the church, church property was seized by the government and missions, convents and schools were closed. In the late 1920’s the Catholics rose up against then president Calles, a strident atheist in what is known as the Cristero War. Many churches were burned or destroyed. Last summer on a road trip to visit the historical towns of the Mexican Revolution, we stopped in Querétaro at the Carmelite convent. The chapel located there had been rebuilt after the Cristeros but included windows looking in on the original walls when the covent was burned in the 20’s(see photo on your right). In Guadalajara a series of government buildings on the main plaza which were part of another convent seized by the government still include the convents’ chapel.
Back to our road trip and the churches we visited. In the City of Querétaro we saw the Mission where Father Junípero Serra was originally stationed before he went on to found twenty some missions stretching from the interior of Mexico up through California. A few years back I was able to visit the Mission at Carmel California where he was buried. It was humbling to see where he had started and all he had accomplished between Querétaro and Carmel. Querétaro is full of historical sites but the must see one is the original aqueduct that brought water from the mountains to the mission. Also in Querétaro there is a convent that is cloistered, closed to the public. We did or best to peak in the giant keyhole of the door to the chapel but were unable to see anything. And to walk the perimeter of the immense property would have taken us more time then we had. It was truly an erie place to encounter.
Before we had reached Querétaro that day we had stopped in Celaya and visited the Franciscan Mission where the chapel contained the bones of a priest who had been burned at the stake after being accused of witchcraft.
Further along our journey that day was the church at Dolores Hidalgo where the bells were rang the night of September 16th, 1810, and the priest Miguel Hidalgo called the people to start the Mexican War for Independence.
Like I said the churches all seem to have a story to share, they are more than a places to worship but places that have been key to the history of the country. While most of the churches I have talked about can be described as grand my favorite one to attend mass at is located in the country, in the canyon area. It is a small, simple chapel out in the countryside, it never was completely built and you can climb the steep, narrow, circular steps up to the roof where the bell towers should have been. Mass there seems to be simple and uncomplicated with a true spirit in the air. Vendors set up outside the church selling, meat, vegetables, ice cream and beer. Folks mill about before and after, enjoying small talk and time just seems to be suspended and you live in the moment.
There have been many, many other churches that I have visited while being in Mexico, some have been forgotten while others deserve a story of their own, but each one has brought me a moment of reflection and a feeling of peace.
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Cocktail Food
A few Fridays ago I was at a cocktail party intended for the press here in Guadalajara to present to them a new resort that is opening in Puerto Vallarta. The Sunset Plaza Beach Resort and Spa.
The evening started around 7:3 pm with drinks and here is where I have to compliment the manager. As soon as it came to his attention that I was from the States, spoke very little Spanish and my friends were tied up with business he took me under his wing explaining everything to me and I enjoyed excellent service from both him and the staff that entire evening.
At around 9pm they gave the presentation on the resort and immediately following this the staff started to circulate with passed appetizers. My background is in food and in previous postings I have talked about the freshness of the food here in Mexico, street vendors and my Mexican weight loss plan. This event though blew me away with the creativity and quality of the food that was served, the more so being that the hors’ devours were passed and some were selections I would never have considered, like the chicken and mushroom soup.
Served in a teeny, tiny demitasse cup the broth was hot and tasty with succulent chicken and a little mushroom, served whole. This being a cocktail party and more of a business event most people were standing with drinks in their hands but somehow the idea of eating soup worked with no problems.
Pure white, miniature soft tortilla shells folded over a paper thin dried pepper that would just dissolve on your tongue. As with everything served that night nothing came out of a box and the tortillas were freshly made.
They had a most unique way to serve the bean dip. Flat bottom ceramic spoons were being passed from trays and each spoon had a layer of refried beans, topped with a spicy mango salsa and a tortilla chip planted like a flag in the middle of each spoon. People would take a bite of their chip and then eat the dip and salsa right off the spoon.
Hand made puff pastries were filled with savory cream cheese and garnished with a sliver of walnut and a blade of lemon grass. These were just the right size to pop whole into your mouth. I learned a couple of years ago after hosting an event that anything flakey must be small enough to eat whole or the ladies will have puff pastry flakes littering their lipstick.
And who would ever have thought to serve lamb shanks at a cocktail party??? Thinly sliced with a mint glaze and served hot it was kind of funny to see folks standing around chewing on the bones but like the soup, it worked.
A cold seafood salad was served in ceramic ramekins and dessert if you will was fruit and cheese presented like a crab Rangoon.
Such creativity and such quality almost makes me want to get back in the business but it’s really nice being the one served for a change.
The evening started around 7:3 pm with drinks and here is where I have to compliment the manager. As soon as it came to his attention that I was from the States, spoke very little Spanish and my friends were tied up with business he took me under his wing explaining everything to me and I enjoyed excellent service from both him and the staff that entire evening.
At around 9pm they gave the presentation on the resort and immediately following this the staff started to circulate with passed appetizers. My background is in food and in previous postings I have talked about the freshness of the food here in Mexico, street vendors and my Mexican weight loss plan. This event though blew me away with the creativity and quality of the food that was served, the more so being that the hors’ devours were passed and some were selections I would never have considered, like the chicken and mushroom soup.
Served in a teeny, tiny demitasse cup the broth was hot and tasty with succulent chicken and a little mushroom, served whole. This being a cocktail party and more of a business event most people were standing with drinks in their hands but somehow the idea of eating soup worked with no problems.
Pure white, miniature soft tortilla shells folded over a paper thin dried pepper that would just dissolve on your tongue. As with everything served that night nothing came out of a box and the tortillas were freshly made.
They had a most unique way to serve the bean dip. Flat bottom ceramic spoons were being passed from trays and each spoon had a layer of refried beans, topped with a spicy mango salsa and a tortilla chip planted like a flag in the middle of each spoon. People would take a bite of their chip and then eat the dip and salsa right off the spoon.
Hand made puff pastries were filled with savory cream cheese and garnished with a sliver of walnut and a blade of lemon grass. These were just the right size to pop whole into your mouth. I learned a couple of years ago after hosting an event that anything flakey must be small enough to eat whole or the ladies will have puff pastry flakes littering their lipstick.
And who would ever have thought to serve lamb shanks at a cocktail party??? Thinly sliced with a mint glaze and served hot it was kind of funny to see folks standing around chewing on the bones but like the soup, it worked.
A cold seafood salad was served in ceramic ramekins and dessert if you will was fruit and cheese presented like a crab Rangoon.
Such creativity and such quality almost makes me want to get back in the business but it’s really nice being the one served for a change.
Monday, December 13, 2010
Sense of Place Part III
Small Town Life
Posted from San Diego de Alejandria
It’s a Saturday morning and I am enjoying the sun on the roof top terrace having my coffee and listening to the sounds of the town around me. It has been unusually chilly and the warmth of the sun is so welcome, but I still have a light weight sweater on. Listening to the braying of the donkey on the next block, the chickens in the yard across the street, the music from the band practicing a couple of doors down, the birds above and the traffic on the street below I have to say that living in Mexico is anything but quiet. Of course Guadalajara with its population and traffic has an abundance of noise and activity; but even in a small town there is certain amount of what I would call commotion.
If your still in bed around 7:45a you will hear the propane man coming down the street with his siren sounding every few moments letting you know that he is on your block. If you need propane just go outside and flag him down. Some mornings it’s not propane you need but electricity or maybe even water. The town has both but every once in awhile there is a morning when the electricity is off or maybe at just half power with the light bulbs glowing dimly. The first time I encountered a brown out I was trying to shave and my thoughts were “where does one buy 3 watt bulbs?” On a recent visit to San Diego the towns’ water pump was not working and the tanks on the roof were empty. At least my shower was only a dribble while another member of the family was all lathered up when the tanks ran dry. But you plan for these events and hook pumps up and run hoses and pretty soon you have water again. And the electricity only seems to go out in the morning and it always comes back on so you just don’t get too excited.
Rare inconveniences like these aside, the town is very self contained and offers all the basic needs a person really requires to go about their life. After first moving to Mexico I was surprised to find that most people work a six day week with Sunday being their only day off. Also another surprise was that instead of shutting down for the weekend many businesses appear to do most of their trade on the weekends along with those that only operate on the weekends. Many of these weekend businesses are food related with the women opening up little restaurants located in the storefronts of their houses, or maybe it’s a coal fired grill on the sidewalk where they sell chicken Saturday and Sundays. One of the best weekend restaurants to visit serves the absolute tastiest gorditas. Little purses of fried dough filled with meat, potatoes, cabbage and cream. I think maybe they are the tastiest because she fries them in animal fat and not vegetable oil.
The number of businesses in a town this size really does astound me. San Diego de Alejandria has a population of 6,181 residents making it about the same size as Crete, Nebraska and slightly larger than Glenwood, Iowa.
The house I stay at was under construction my first five months in Mexico and aside from some specialty items everything you would need to build a home is available in town. There are construction workers to put the house together, carpenters for your cabinets, metal workers for your doors and windows, and two glass shops for the widow panes. There are hardware stores, building supply businesses, furniture and appliance dealers. Need bricks for construction just ride your bike to the edge of town and tell them how many to deliver, they seem to make bricks everyday and even though they are located on the edge of town the smell of the baking bricks still hangs in the air occasionally.
As many people know I drove here last May in my 1991 Ford Bronco. It made the trip with only one incidence, a plugged fuel filter and burned out gas pump. Since then it has been running like a dream and is on its way to the mechanic for a complete overhaul. After the mechanicals all get as close to new as possible it will go to the body shop for some cosmetic surgery and a new coat of paint. Not sure if it will stay red and tan or change to black and tan but whichever it ends up being should go well with the new natural cow hide interior the upholsterer is going to install. Thing is you can shop around to have the work done in town from all the mechanics, body shops and audios shops. Of course there is a gas station, a tow service, auto parts store, couple of tire repairs and a car wash where you can get it detailed for 40 pesos ($3.33).
Food is plentiful along with the choices of where to shop. Now it’s not like going to Wal-Mart or the supermarket and buying everything in one place. You have to choose which butcher to get your meat from and which tortilla maker to buy your tortillas from. And while every block seems to have at least one little shop, if not more they may not have the item you want. All the shops have snack items along with milk and beverages and some have veggies and some have bakery items, you just kind of learn when to go where. But then you can always take advantage of the folks who come into town selling fresh vegetables and fruit out of the back of their truck and announcing their presence over loud speakers mounted to the roof. I have always been a fan of jicama but have never had jicama like what we bought from the back of a truck. This jicama was so moist that the juice just ran out of it when cut. What has to be the best little shop is operated by a grandma who has nothing but a house hold refrigerator stocked with the coldest Coke and beer. Now if she’s not tending the store you just holler back into the house to let her know you are there. Seems like beverages are big business and you have a number of choices on where to buy liquor, and the choices they offer are pretty extensive as long as its beer or tequila. If you're a wine or scotch drinker the choices are pretty slim.
Clothing stores and shoe stores may not have the widest selection but the fashions are up to date and there are choices on where to shop.
Toy stores, gift shops and a jeweler are available if you need something for a special time. And if you need a place to rent for your special event you have your choice of venues.
Need to purchase a phone or use the internet – there are at least three options and the state is requiring every town to provide wireless internet in the town plaza.
San Diego de Alejandria does lack a local bank but there is an ATM, a money changer and what has been described to me as the unofficial “bank” – that provide folks with loans when needed.
The town has two hotels and a funeral home.
The bus station is always active with buses arrivng at all times during the day. The bus service in Mexico is extensive and living in Guadalajara I have come to appreciate the bus and the subway, but it's not just the big cities that have bus service it's the small towns too, and the funniest site is to see a bus bench on the highway in the middle of nowhere.
I have not needed health care at this point but should an emergency happen there is the ambulance service and for everyday health concerns there are doctors and dentists in town.
These are all the official storefront businesses but there is so much more commerce that goes on in San Diego. Everyone seems to be selling or working at something, there is a robust entrpenurial spirit alive in this country. There are the women who bake breads and sell door to door, women who sew the decorations on the sombreros for the tourist trade, women who take in laundry and those who tailor. The men, who do odd jobs, sell plants or handmade furniture on the street corners. Then the kids who sell candy or fruit they have picked. There is all sorts of unofficial commerce that takes place, there are even women who work the street. On a recent trip to Aguascalientes I remarked at the number of people who were begging. You rarely see this in Guadalajara and there is only one family in San Diego that will ask you for the money, everyone else is busy working for it.
If you are not involved in any of the storefront or non-official businesses that take place in San Diego you can always get a job at one of the factories. Working at the cheese factory was my first choice for a job until I found out they work six days a week, twelve hours a day and are paid $50 a week. Although I still think it would be fun to flail lengths of cheese over my shoulder and across my back to stretch them out not sure if my time is that cheap. The bag factory and the tennis shoe factory pay a bit better but not by much and the hours are the same.
Much of the “entertainment” that happens in town is sponsored by the government, schools or the church. San Diego is the seat of the municipality or what we would call county so a lot of the county events take place here. There is always something going on at the town plaza and you are guaranteed entertainment will be happening Sunday nights. Maybe a demonstration of traditional dance from another state or a mariachi band performing. Either way it’s free or the plaza is crowded. The schools seem to keep the kids occupied with events and the church of which there are three in town plays a huge part in people’s lives. Upon arriving in May I attended a two hour, Thursday evening, outdoor mass which included a procession to various stations set up around the church grounds. The final station was dedicated to blessing the people of South Africa and the athletes of the World Cup. Imagine my surprise to hear Shakira and her World Cup anthem being played for the procession. The priest and everybody were loving it!!!
Speaking of the church, there are many times when the priest is broadcast over loud speakers outside the church during mass and on a Saturday evening the kids are broadcast to the town while singing during their religion classes. The thing I really love are the bells proclaiming the time. How many mornings have I been to lazy to reach for my phone to check the time and I will just lie there waiting for the bells to ring.
There is no theater but there is a video store selling pirated copies of movies and CDs’.
Going out for a bite to eat is easy since there are so many choices available from taco and seafood stands to the chicken restaurant and the local pizza place. Over the last couple of years since I started coming to town it is amazing how many new eating establishments have opened.
And sometimes entertainment is simply sitting out in front of your house and conversing with your neighbors. Saying adois to everyone that passes by.
All this commerce and business and living generate a lot of activity and commotion and makes for a lively environment. People may make comments about their neighbors’ loud music and cruising around town in your car with the music playing is a popular activity – sometimes way late at night – but no one complains or gets too excited. After being in Guadalajara for a few weeks now and the constant barrage of commotion the city throws at you I have an appreciation for the lower volume of commotion available in San Diego.
It would seem that in a previous posting I offended some folks when I made the comment that small towns and the countryside in the U.S. Midwest felt quiet and lifeless to me. No offense was meant but I remember when small town America was self sufficient locally as opposed to regionally. A time when a town of 100 souls still had a gas station, conveinece store, postoffice and even a bar. I would ask that those folks compare what I have shared about San Diego de Alejandria and the amount of activity that occurs there to what goes on in Glenwood, Iowa or Crete, Nebraska. The last time I was in Glenwood it was pretty quiet except for the sound of flies buzzing around my head. And Crete? The last time it came up in conversation no one could say if Waneks of Crete was still in business. My point is simply that San Diego de Alejandria is representative of so many towns in Mexico both smaller and larger, that it is able to meet the daily needs of its residents and offer a place to live that is lively and full of commotion.
Posted from San Diego de Alejandria
It’s a Saturday morning and I am enjoying the sun on the roof top terrace having my coffee and listening to the sounds of the town around me. It has been unusually chilly and the warmth of the sun is so welcome, but I still have a light weight sweater on. Listening to the braying of the donkey on the next block, the chickens in the yard across the street, the music from the band practicing a couple of doors down, the birds above and the traffic on the street below I have to say that living in Mexico is anything but quiet. Of course Guadalajara with its population and traffic has an abundance of noise and activity; but even in a small town there is certain amount of what I would call commotion.
If your still in bed around 7:45a you will hear the propane man coming down the street with his siren sounding every few moments letting you know that he is on your block. If you need propane just go outside and flag him down. Some mornings it’s not propane you need but electricity or maybe even water. The town has both but every once in awhile there is a morning when the electricity is off or maybe at just half power with the light bulbs glowing dimly. The first time I encountered a brown out I was trying to shave and my thoughts were “where does one buy 3 watt bulbs?” On a recent visit to San Diego the towns’ water pump was not working and the tanks on the roof were empty. At least my shower was only a dribble while another member of the family was all lathered up when the tanks ran dry. But you plan for these events and hook pumps up and run hoses and pretty soon you have water again. And the electricity only seems to go out in the morning and it always comes back on so you just don’t get too excited.
Rare inconveniences like these aside, the town is very self contained and offers all the basic needs a person really requires to go about their life. After first moving to Mexico I was surprised to find that most people work a six day week with Sunday being their only day off. Also another surprise was that instead of shutting down for the weekend many businesses appear to do most of their trade on the weekends along with those that only operate on the weekends. Many of these weekend businesses are food related with the women opening up little restaurants located in the storefronts of their houses, or maybe it’s a coal fired grill on the sidewalk where they sell chicken Saturday and Sundays. One of the best weekend restaurants to visit serves the absolute tastiest gorditas. Little purses of fried dough filled with meat, potatoes, cabbage and cream. I think maybe they are the tastiest because she fries them in animal fat and not vegetable oil.
The number of businesses in a town this size really does astound me. San Diego de Alejandria has a population of 6,181 residents making it about the same size as Crete, Nebraska and slightly larger than Glenwood, Iowa.
The house I stay at was under construction my first five months in Mexico and aside from some specialty items everything you would need to build a home is available in town. There are construction workers to put the house together, carpenters for your cabinets, metal workers for your doors and windows, and two glass shops for the widow panes. There are hardware stores, building supply businesses, furniture and appliance dealers. Need bricks for construction just ride your bike to the edge of town and tell them how many to deliver, they seem to make bricks everyday and even though they are located on the edge of town the smell of the baking bricks still hangs in the air occasionally.
As many people know I drove here last May in my 1991 Ford Bronco. It made the trip with only one incidence, a plugged fuel filter and burned out gas pump. Since then it has been running like a dream and is on its way to the mechanic for a complete overhaul. After the mechanicals all get as close to new as possible it will go to the body shop for some cosmetic surgery and a new coat of paint. Not sure if it will stay red and tan or change to black and tan but whichever it ends up being should go well with the new natural cow hide interior the upholsterer is going to install. Thing is you can shop around to have the work done in town from all the mechanics, body shops and audios shops. Of course there is a gas station, a tow service, auto parts store, couple of tire repairs and a car wash where you can get it detailed for 40 pesos ($3.33).
Food is plentiful along with the choices of where to shop. Now it’s not like going to Wal-Mart or the supermarket and buying everything in one place. You have to choose which butcher to get your meat from and which tortilla maker to buy your tortillas from. And while every block seems to have at least one little shop, if not more they may not have the item you want. All the shops have snack items along with milk and beverages and some have veggies and some have bakery items, you just kind of learn when to go where. But then you can always take advantage of the folks who come into town selling fresh vegetables and fruit out of the back of their truck and announcing their presence over loud speakers mounted to the roof. I have always been a fan of jicama but have never had jicama like what we bought from the back of a truck. This jicama was so moist that the juice just ran out of it when cut. What has to be the best little shop is operated by a grandma who has nothing but a house hold refrigerator stocked with the coldest Coke and beer. Now if she’s not tending the store you just holler back into the house to let her know you are there. Seems like beverages are big business and you have a number of choices on where to buy liquor, and the choices they offer are pretty extensive as long as its beer or tequila. If you're a wine or scotch drinker the choices are pretty slim.
Clothing stores and shoe stores may not have the widest selection but the fashions are up to date and there are choices on where to shop.
Toy stores, gift shops and a jeweler are available if you need something for a special time. And if you need a place to rent for your special event you have your choice of venues.
Need to purchase a phone or use the internet – there are at least three options and the state is requiring every town to provide wireless internet in the town plaza.
San Diego de Alejandria does lack a local bank but there is an ATM, a money changer and what has been described to me as the unofficial “bank” – that provide folks with loans when needed.
The town has two hotels and a funeral home.
The bus station is always active with buses arrivng at all times during the day. The bus service in Mexico is extensive and living in Guadalajara I have come to appreciate the bus and the subway, but it's not just the big cities that have bus service it's the small towns too, and the funniest site is to see a bus bench on the highway in the middle of nowhere.
I have not needed health care at this point but should an emergency happen there is the ambulance service and for everyday health concerns there are doctors and dentists in town.
These are all the official storefront businesses but there is so much more commerce that goes on in San Diego. Everyone seems to be selling or working at something, there is a robust entrpenurial spirit alive in this country. There are the women who bake breads and sell door to door, women who sew the decorations on the sombreros for the tourist trade, women who take in laundry and those who tailor. The men, who do odd jobs, sell plants or handmade furniture on the street corners. Then the kids who sell candy or fruit they have picked. There is all sorts of unofficial commerce that takes place, there are even women who work the street. On a recent trip to Aguascalientes I remarked at the number of people who were begging. You rarely see this in Guadalajara and there is only one family in San Diego that will ask you for the money, everyone else is busy working for it.
If you are not involved in any of the storefront or non-official businesses that take place in San Diego you can always get a job at one of the factories. Working at the cheese factory was my first choice for a job until I found out they work six days a week, twelve hours a day and are paid $50 a week. Although I still think it would be fun to flail lengths of cheese over my shoulder and across my back to stretch them out not sure if my time is that cheap. The bag factory and the tennis shoe factory pay a bit better but not by much and the hours are the same.
Much of the “entertainment” that happens in town is sponsored by the government, schools or the church. San Diego is the seat of the municipality or what we would call county so a lot of the county events take place here. There is always something going on at the town plaza and you are guaranteed entertainment will be happening Sunday nights. Maybe a demonstration of traditional dance from another state or a mariachi band performing. Either way it’s free or the plaza is crowded. The schools seem to keep the kids occupied with events and the church of which there are three in town plays a huge part in people’s lives. Upon arriving in May I attended a two hour, Thursday evening, outdoor mass which included a procession to various stations set up around the church grounds. The final station was dedicated to blessing the people of South Africa and the athletes of the World Cup. Imagine my surprise to hear Shakira and her World Cup anthem being played for the procession. The priest and everybody were loving it!!!
Speaking of the church, there are many times when the priest is broadcast over loud speakers outside the church during mass and on a Saturday evening the kids are broadcast to the town while singing during their religion classes. The thing I really love are the bells proclaiming the time. How many mornings have I been to lazy to reach for my phone to check the time and I will just lie there waiting for the bells to ring.
There is no theater but there is a video store selling pirated copies of movies and CDs’.
Going out for a bite to eat is easy since there are so many choices available from taco and seafood stands to the chicken restaurant and the local pizza place. Over the last couple of years since I started coming to town it is amazing how many new eating establishments have opened.
And sometimes entertainment is simply sitting out in front of your house and conversing with your neighbors. Saying adois to everyone that passes by.
All this commerce and business and living generate a lot of activity and commotion and makes for a lively environment. People may make comments about their neighbors’ loud music and cruising around town in your car with the music playing is a popular activity – sometimes way late at night – but no one complains or gets too excited. After being in Guadalajara for a few weeks now and the constant barrage of commotion the city throws at you I have an appreciation for the lower volume of commotion available in San Diego.
It would seem that in a previous posting I offended some folks when I made the comment that small towns and the countryside in the U.S. Midwest felt quiet and lifeless to me. No offense was meant but I remember when small town America was self sufficient locally as opposed to regionally. A time when a town of 100 souls still had a gas station, conveinece store, postoffice and even a bar. I would ask that those folks compare what I have shared about San Diego de Alejandria and the amount of activity that occurs there to what goes on in Glenwood, Iowa or Crete, Nebraska. The last time I was in Glenwood it was pretty quiet except for the sound of flies buzzing around my head. And Crete? The last time it came up in conversation no one could say if Waneks of Crete was still in business. My point is simply that San Diego de Alejandria is representative of so many towns in Mexico both smaller and larger, that it is able to meet the daily needs of its residents and offer a place to live that is lively and full of commotion.
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Paquita, FIL, My Mexican Weight Loss Program and Mas BOOBIES
Paquita la del Barrio
I have always been a fan of different types of music and about the only genre that is not on my iPod would be heavy metal. Part of the fun of living in Mexico is the music scene. We have been entertained at outdoor performances by reggae and opera. Have enjoyed a concert of sacred music sung in the ancient language of the Jews, performed on traditional medieval instruments. There was the harp concert that included five members of one family from Ecuador. And recently there was piano recital by a teeny, tiny German woman with Einstein hair who had performed her first recital in 1954. And I almost forgot about the street musicians of every kind.
My appreciation of Mexican music and Mexican performers has grown immensely and I now recognize many of them when they are played on the radio. Music seems to be part of the Mexican psyche and there are songs and artists that transcend all age groups. And when these songs or artists perform everyone sings. One of these iconic performers and also one of my favorites is Paquita la del Barrio.
While most of her songs are of a feminist nature bashing men and the macho culture, everyone adores her. Songs such as “Rata de dos Patas” (rat with two feet) and “Pobre Pistilito” (poor little pistol). I was able to see her perform at what would be the Jalisco State Fair in September, the stadium was overflowing and the promenade around the top deck had people standing ten deep to watch the show. Paquita is a very well put together women with a huge band to back her up but basically its just her out there with her songs. There are no dancers, no light show and aside from the occasional “gracias” to the crowd and patting her brow with a hanky it’s just her singing with the crowd is screaming for more.
Paquita is a true diva but I am told she is also very down to earth. She enjoys her tequila before the concert and when she is not performing Paquita is at her restaurant in Mexico City, in there cooking, making tortillas and serving her guests.
Please enjoy the following video as Paquita la del Barrio performs “Rata de dos Patas”
FIL - Feria Internacional del Libro de Guadalajara
Guadalajara International Book Fair
Last Thursday Spanish class was canceled for a field trip. The teachers and students got on the #262 bus, paid our 6 pesos each and went to the Guadalajara International Book Fair, known as FIL.
The book fair takes place over 9 days and features 500 writers, 350 book presentations, 1,650 publishing houses and book vendors from 40 countries and is the second largest book fair in the world after Frankfurt, Germany.
I woke up that morning looking forward to going but without any idea of what this event entailed. When we arrived that morning the exposition center was bustling but by the time we left around 12:3 it was packed. We walked the whole center, somehow never losing anyone in our group, but with the aisles of publishers and vendors I know we didn’t experience everything there was to see.
Was planning to return that evening with friends for the free outdoor concert that takes place after the book fair closes at 9pm, but we didn’t make it. As one of the girls in our group remarked, "Who would've thought there would be so many things going on at a book fair". The place was certainly lively and not library quiet at all.
Since our knowledge of Spanish is fairly limited the group spent most of time looking at and buying children’s books. Which was really kind of fun, I found a pop-up copy of Jules Verne’s “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea” which was my favorite book as a kid. Not sure how many times I checked that out of the Benson Library in Omaha, but it was more than a couple. Anyway this pop-up book is a pretty sophisticated and seems to be fairly complete as far as a story line goes. I am excited to start practicing Spanish with my new treasure and am really motivated now to learn more so that next year maybe I can purchase something that is a bit more of a read.
I was able to return to the book fair on Friday night before another event. It's amazing how large and spread out Guadalajara is that everything seems to happen so close by. So Friday night around 7:3 they closed the ticket windows and entry was free and the fair was staying open till 3am Saturday morning. That night the place was packed but I found another room in the expo center we hadn't seen that was divided up by country. There was gridlock surrounding the exposition center and the sidewalks were lined with street vendors of all types. Makes me proud to be a reader.
My Mexican Diet Plan
Being back in the states last September I was astounded by the amount of food being served. During those three weeks I gained a total of 10 pounds. Even though I had only been gone four months I guess I never realized how much food was consumed at one setting, and how you always finish what is in front of you.
Upon my return to Mexico I quickly lost what I had gained in Nebraska plus another 12 pounds.
All totaled since moving to Mexico I have lost 42 pounds and 7 inches off my waist.
I attribute this to the following factors:
1) The food we eat here is natural, fresh and local-
Not “manufactured” or processed
2) The portions are correct-
The states have “BIG food”. Here you stop at a taco stand and eat 3 tacos, if you want to, you get another. It seems that everyday is Thanksgiving back in the states.
3) I am never hungry here-
Maybe because my stomach is never stretched – hehehe
4) My meals are pretty much on a schedule-
I generally have breakfast between 8 and 9. Lunch between 2 and 4.
Dinner rarely.
5) I walk-
Maybe not as much as I did when living in the country but in Guadalajara I walk to the bus, to the subway, to the store and then up the 5 flights of stairs to our third floor apartment.
Not sure how that works but its 5 flights - no elevator
6) I probably eat more dairy than ever before-
I had never been a fan of milk but now drink at least one glass every morning and breakfast usually has two eggs with it. I remember working with a guy who was on a diet that required eggs every morning.
It all seems pretty simple, natural foods, correct portions and exercise but my diet plan happened without me even knowing it.
Mas BOOBIES, Mas Boobies, Mas Boobies !!!
That's how the announcer shouts it every time this commercial plays on the radio.
This is the commercial of a bar that is located just three blocks from the apartment. The promotion is that every time you drink there, if you are female, you are given a chance to win a new pair of BOOBIES. I don't even know if this would be legal in the States.
I have always been a fan of different types of music and about the only genre that is not on my iPod would be heavy metal. Part of the fun of living in Mexico is the music scene. We have been entertained at outdoor performances by reggae and opera. Have enjoyed a concert of sacred music sung in the ancient language of the Jews, performed on traditional medieval instruments. There was the harp concert that included five members of one family from Ecuador. And recently there was piano recital by a teeny, tiny German woman with Einstein hair who had performed her first recital in 1954. And I almost forgot about the street musicians of every kind.
My appreciation of Mexican music and Mexican performers has grown immensely and I now recognize many of them when they are played on the radio. Music seems to be part of the Mexican psyche and there are songs and artists that transcend all age groups. And when these songs or artists perform everyone sings. One of these iconic performers and also one of my favorites is Paquita la del Barrio.
While most of her songs are of a feminist nature bashing men and the macho culture, everyone adores her. Songs such as “Rata de dos Patas” (rat with two feet) and “Pobre Pistilito” (poor little pistol). I was able to see her perform at what would be the Jalisco State Fair in September, the stadium was overflowing and the promenade around the top deck had people standing ten deep to watch the show. Paquita is a very well put together women with a huge band to back her up but basically its just her out there with her songs. There are no dancers, no light show and aside from the occasional “gracias” to the crowd and patting her brow with a hanky it’s just her singing with the crowd is screaming for more.
Paquita is a true diva but I am told she is also very down to earth. She enjoys her tequila before the concert and when she is not performing Paquita is at her restaurant in Mexico City, in there cooking, making tortillas and serving her guests.
Please enjoy the following video as Paquita la del Barrio performs “Rata de dos Patas”
FIL - Feria Internacional del Libro de Guadalajara
Guadalajara International Book Fair
Last Thursday Spanish class was canceled for a field trip. The teachers and students got on the #262 bus, paid our 6 pesos each and went to the Guadalajara International Book Fair, known as FIL.
The book fair takes place over 9 days and features 500 writers, 350 book presentations, 1,650 publishing houses and book vendors from 40 countries and is the second largest book fair in the world after Frankfurt, Germany.
I woke up that morning looking forward to going but without any idea of what this event entailed. When we arrived that morning the exposition center was bustling but by the time we left around 12:3 it was packed. We walked the whole center, somehow never losing anyone in our group, but with the aisles of publishers and vendors I know we didn’t experience everything there was to see.
Was planning to return that evening with friends for the free outdoor concert that takes place after the book fair closes at 9pm, but we didn’t make it. As one of the girls in our group remarked, "Who would've thought there would be so many things going on at a book fair". The place was certainly lively and not library quiet at all.
Since our knowledge of Spanish is fairly limited the group spent most of time looking at and buying children’s books. Which was really kind of fun, I found a pop-up copy of Jules Verne’s “20,000 Leagues Under the Sea” which was my favorite book as a kid. Not sure how many times I checked that out of the Benson Library in Omaha, but it was more than a couple. Anyway this pop-up book is a pretty sophisticated and seems to be fairly complete as far as a story line goes. I am excited to start practicing Spanish with my new treasure and am really motivated now to learn more so that next year maybe I can purchase something that is a bit more of a read.
I was able to return to the book fair on Friday night before another event. It's amazing how large and spread out Guadalajara is that everything seems to happen so close by. So Friday night around 7:3 they closed the ticket windows and entry was free and the fair was staying open till 3am Saturday morning. That night the place was packed but I found another room in the expo center we hadn't seen that was divided up by country. There was gridlock surrounding the exposition center and the sidewalks were lined with street vendors of all types. Makes me proud to be a reader.
My Mexican Diet Plan
Being back in the states last September I was astounded by the amount of food being served. During those three weeks I gained a total of 10 pounds. Even though I had only been gone four months I guess I never realized how much food was consumed at one setting, and how you always finish what is in front of you.
Upon my return to Mexico I quickly lost what I had gained in Nebraska plus another 12 pounds.
All totaled since moving to Mexico I have lost 42 pounds and 7 inches off my waist.
I attribute this to the following factors:
1) The food we eat here is natural, fresh and local-
Not “manufactured” or processed
2) The portions are correct-
The states have “BIG food”. Here you stop at a taco stand and eat 3 tacos, if you want to, you get another. It seems that everyday is Thanksgiving back in the states.
3) I am never hungry here-
Maybe because my stomach is never stretched – hehehe
4) My meals are pretty much on a schedule-
I generally have breakfast between 8 and 9. Lunch between 2 and 4.
Dinner rarely.
5) I walk-
Maybe not as much as I did when living in the country but in Guadalajara I walk to the bus, to the subway, to the store and then up the 5 flights of stairs to our third floor apartment.
Not sure how that works but its 5 flights - no elevator
6) I probably eat more dairy than ever before-
I had never been a fan of milk but now drink at least one glass every morning and breakfast usually has two eggs with it. I remember working with a guy who was on a diet that required eggs every morning.
It all seems pretty simple, natural foods, correct portions and exercise but my diet plan happened without me even knowing it.
Mas BOOBIES, Mas Boobies, Mas Boobies !!!
That's how the announcer shouts it every time this commercial plays on the radio.
This is the commercial of a bar that is located just three blocks from the apartment. The promotion is that every time you drink there, if you are female, you are given a chance to win a new pair of BOOBIES. I don't even know if this would be legal in the States.
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
"La Pequena Gigante"
This past week events in Guadalajara Centro have been described as surreal and while they may seem that way I would say they are more magical capturing the hearts and minds of over 3 million citizens.
Last Monday a wall “fell from heaven” embedding it’s self into the cobblestone street in front of the Teatro Degollado. The wall was painted with a mural similar to one by Diego Rivera telling the history of Mexico, but this mural included another story complete with giants.
Later on Tuesday the giants began to arrive in the city when a large block of ice containing the dog “El Xolo” appeared in the Plaza Santuario. Thursday evening riding into town on a bus from Morales was the “La Pequena Gigante” (Little Giant).
It was all produced by Royal de Luxe Company of France and was part of the ongoing celebrations of Mexican Independence and the Mexican Revolution.
The Little Giant was here to reunite with her uncle “El Campesino”. The legend on the wall tells how “El Campesino” heard Miguel Hidalgos’ cry for independence. But when he appeared before the rebel forces they feared he would kill Hidalgo and buried him in a hidden sarcophagus. Two centuries later “La Pequena Gigante” along with her dog "Xolo" are reunited with “El Campesino”
Before leaving town on Friday afternoon we were able to see where “La Pequena Gigante” had slept through the night after arriving in town and causing an accident that left vehicles overturned.
When we arrived around 1:3pm she was laying in the street snoring loudly. Many blocks down Avenida Alcade her dog “Xolo” was awake and ready to make the run to find his mistress and begin their journey together.
The two of them would stroll through town until they came upon the wall and the story it told of Mexico and "La Pequena Gigantes'" Uncle. That night they would sleep in front of the Teatro Degollda then go off in search of the sarcophagus containing “El Campesino” the next day.
The story and events pull you in as the giant marionettes come to life. And come to life they do, truly seeming alive through their actions and facial expressions complete with blinking eyes. When “Xolo” ran down the street he really ran, as any dog would looking for his mistress. And when he found “La Pequena Gigante” asleep he started to nudge her and lick her like a real dog would as if saying “ come on, get up, let’s go”.
When the claim is made that the events were surreal it had as much to do with the mass of people attending and the fact that many major streets that are always congested with traffic were going to be closed for days. And then to watch as “Xolo” woke from his block of ice and started to make his way to “La Pequena Gigante” breaking into a run as he got closer with thousands of people chasing in pursuit. All five of us included. It was the magic that pulled you in and you just felt you needed to be a part of the giants’ story.
Please check out YouTube for more videos of the Giants adventures in Guadalajara.
Last Monday a wall “fell from heaven” embedding it’s self into the cobblestone street in front of the Teatro Degollado. The wall was painted with a mural similar to one by Diego Rivera telling the history of Mexico, but this mural included another story complete with giants.
Later on Tuesday the giants began to arrive in the city when a large block of ice containing the dog “El Xolo” appeared in the Plaza Santuario. Thursday evening riding into town on a bus from Morales was the “La Pequena Gigante” (Little Giant).
It was all produced by Royal de Luxe Company of France and was part of the ongoing celebrations of Mexican Independence and the Mexican Revolution.
The Little Giant was here to reunite with her uncle “El Campesino”. The legend on the wall tells how “El Campesino” heard Miguel Hidalgos’ cry for independence. But when he appeared before the rebel forces they feared he would kill Hidalgo and buried him in a hidden sarcophagus. Two centuries later “La Pequena Gigante” along with her dog "Xolo" are reunited with “El Campesino”
Before leaving town on Friday afternoon we were able to see where “La Pequena Gigante” had slept through the night after arriving in town and causing an accident that left vehicles overturned.
When we arrived around 1:3pm she was laying in the street snoring loudly. Many blocks down Avenida Alcade her dog “Xolo” was awake and ready to make the run to find his mistress and begin their journey together.
The two of them would stroll through town until they came upon the wall and the story it told of Mexico and "La Pequena Gigantes'" Uncle. That night they would sleep in front of the Teatro Degollda then go off in search of the sarcophagus containing “El Campesino” the next day.
The story and events pull you in as the giant marionettes come to life. And come to life they do, truly seeming alive through their actions and facial expressions complete with blinking eyes. When “Xolo” ran down the street he really ran, as any dog would looking for his mistress. And when he found “La Pequena Gigante” asleep he started to nudge her and lick her like a real dog would as if saying “ come on, get up, let’s go”.
When the claim is made that the events were surreal it had as much to do with the mass of people attending and the fact that many major streets that are always congested with traffic were going to be closed for days. And then to watch as “Xolo” woke from his block of ice and started to make his way to “La Pequena Gigante” breaking into a run as he got closer with thousands of people chasing in pursuit. All five of us included. It was the magic that pulled you in and you just felt you needed to be a part of the giants’ story.
Please check out YouTube for more videos of the Giants adventures in Guadalajara.
Original Introduction - Bienvenidos “Postcard From Mexico”
Bienvenidos to my blog “Postcard From Mexico”
It’s not that I feel my life is that interesting; It’s just that I live in a very interesting world.
Shortly after moving to Mexico I began to find that everyday brought new adventures, sometimes challenges depending on your outlook. Adventures from having the car chased down by a guard ostrich to getting a cell phone – it’s a whole different world from what I was used to in Omaha, Nebraska.
In keeping touch with folks I found that I was sharing many of these adventures and people were looking forward to hearing more about this new world of mine. My Sincere Thanks to all for the feedback and encouragement to write this blog.
At the start of this project I investigated a lot of what the web had to offer for blogs on Mexico.
The majority of the blogs seem to be News related – in the beginning this will be left to the professionals – unless of course I am the news.
There are many blogs on Food – we eat eggs right from the chicken and drink milk warm from the cow, having been in the food business there will be much to share on the food.
There is any number of Travel blogs – one did nothing but complain about the weather. I will try harder. To be honest there is so much to experience when you get out and see the country and get away from the typical tourist areas. So there will be no reviews about the odious Senor Frogs in Puerto Vallarta but there will be stories like waking up on my 48th birthday in the beautiful mountain town of Talpa situated deep down in the valley.
And finally there are the “How To” blogs with information on how to live, get a drivers license, get a visa etc…. – Honestly would you want advice from me??? I drove here, 1,800 miles in my 1991 Ford Bronco and after being here for almost two months I still don’t speak Spanish and I have no official papers. The best advice I can give you goes for life in general, be patient, relax and enjoy the moments.
So I hope you enjoy what this interesting world of Mexico has to offer. Comments are encouraged and questions will be answered if possible.
It’s not that I feel my life is that interesting; It’s just that I live in a very interesting world.
Shortly after moving to Mexico I began to find that everyday brought new adventures, sometimes challenges depending on your outlook. Adventures from having the car chased down by a guard ostrich to getting a cell phone – it’s a whole different world from what I was used to in Omaha, Nebraska.
In keeping touch with folks I found that I was sharing many of these adventures and people were looking forward to hearing more about this new world of mine. My Sincere Thanks to all for the feedback and encouragement to write this blog.
At the start of this project I investigated a lot of what the web had to offer for blogs on Mexico.
The majority of the blogs seem to be News related – in the beginning this will be left to the professionals – unless of course I am the news.
There are many blogs on Food – we eat eggs right from the chicken and drink milk warm from the cow, having been in the food business there will be much to share on the food.
There is any number of Travel blogs – one did nothing but complain about the weather. I will try harder. To be honest there is so much to experience when you get out and see the country and get away from the typical tourist areas. So there will be no reviews about the odious Senor Frogs in Puerto Vallarta but there will be stories like waking up on my 48th birthday in the beautiful mountain town of Talpa situated deep down in the valley.
And finally there are the “How To” blogs with information on how to live, get a drivers license, get a visa etc…. – Honestly would you want advice from me??? I drove here, 1,800 miles in my 1991 Ford Bronco and after being here for almost two months I still don’t speak Spanish and I have no official papers. The best advice I can give you goes for life in general, be patient, relax and enjoy the moments.
So I hope you enjoy what this interesting world of Mexico has to offer. Comments are encouraged and questions will be answered if possible.
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